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Lululemon has $1.8 billion to fix itself and a CEO who won't arrive until fall

Lululemon has $1.8 billion to fix itself and a CEO who won't arrive until fall

Photo: RDNE Stock project

Lululemon just ended a months-long war with its own founder, and the prize is a $1.8 billion cash pile that its incoming CEO can use to rebuild a brand that has lost nearly 60% of its stock value in the past year. The catch: that CEO, Heidi O'Neill, doesn't start until September.

The proxy fight, waged by founder Chip Wilson, dragged on long enough to rattle investors already watching the brand lose ground to younger rivals. Shares fell roughly 9% in the final month of the conflict alone. The truce announced Wednesday removes one source of noise. But the deeper problem, a cooled relationship with the core customer who built Lululemon into a billion-dollar name, is still very much open.

A gap that competitors are filling

The athleisure market that Lululemon once owned is now crowded. Alo Yoga and Vuori have opened U.S. stores, often planted directly near Lululemon locations, and they are chasing the same affluent shopper who once felt the brand had no real competition. Lululemon's gross margins are still healthy at about 57 cents on every dollar of revenue, but operating margins have slipped below 20%, and sales growth in North America, which accounts for roughly three-quarters of the company's revenue, has stalled.

The most immediate fix may not require a massive spending plan. Brian Nagel, a senior analyst at Oppenheimer, described the priority as a return to basics: introducing more straightforward products that give loyal customers a reason to spend again. Getting the home market right before betting on expansion is the logical sequence.

But the $1.8 billion in net cash does open up larger moves. Analysts point to footwear as one category where Lululemon has room to compete. Europe and China, where the brand still carries novelty and aspirational appeal, represent growth that North America can no longer reliably provide. "You have a brand that is still very portable," Nagel told Reuters. "You need to fix the home market, but investing behind that portability makes sense."

The September problem

None of that happens fast. Randal Konik at Jefferies put the timing bluntly: no serious investor will commit to a large position in Lululemon when its new leader hasn't even started yet. O'Neill arrives after the back-to-school shopping season is already finished, meaning any real product or strategy changes are unlikely to be visible until sometime in 2027.

That delay hands Alo and Vuori a runway. Every month O'Neill isn't in the building is another month her competitors can open stores, build habits with customers who used to default to Lululemon, and harden their position in a market that rewards loyalty.

The comparison that looms over the whole situation is VF Corp, the company behind Vans and other apparel brands. When VF Corp brought in a new CEO in 2023, he walked into more than $5 billion in debt and has spent two years selling assets just to stabilize the business. Lululemon's position is fundamentally different: cash-rich, with no financial distress forcing rushed decisions.

That distinction matters. O'Neill will have options that most incoming consumer brand CEOs don't. She can invest in product without borrowing, enter new markets without sacrificing margins elsewhere, and take the time to diagnose what actually went wrong with North American shoppers rather than making a panicked pivot.

Whether she gets to use that advantage will depend on how much more ground the brand gives up before she walks in the door. First-quarter results, due next week, will give the first real read on whether the slide has stopped or is still moving.