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Old Navy just dragged Gap's biggest bet, and now it needs a rescue

Old Navy just dragged Gap's biggest bet, and now it needs a rescue

Photo: Ludovic Delot

Old Navy is in trouble, and that matters more than it might sound. The brand generates nearly 60 cents of every dollar Gap takes in, which means when Old Navy stumbles, Gap stumbles with it, regardless of how well everything else is going.

This past quarter, Old Navy stumbled hard.

Net sales fell 4% from a year earlier to $2.1 billion. Comparable sales, meaning sales at stores open long enough to count as a meaningful comparison, dropped 4%. Analysts had expected a 2.4% decline. That gap between expectation and reality is the real story: this wasn't a soft quarter that Wall Street had already priced in. It was worse, and it ended a streak of 12 straight quarters without a negative comparable sales reading.

Gap CEO Richard Dickson acknowledged the miss but pointed to a specific cause: summer marketing that "lacked a direct product message." In plain terms, Old Navy's ads weren't doing the one thing ads are supposed to do, which is make people want to buy something specific. Shoppers showed up less. Sales fell.

The fix Gap is betting on

Gap's response was to replace Old Navy's CEO. Michael Francis, a retail veteran with turnaround experience at Walmart, Target, and JCPenney, will take over as president and CEO of Old Navy on November 2. The outgoing chief, Haio Barbeito, moves into an advisory role.

Markets read the move as decisive. Gap shares jumped as much as 14% after the earnings report. Some of that was relief: overall profitability was genuinely strong. Operating income more than doubled to $676 million from $292 million a year earlier, and net income rose to $501 million from $216 million. Gap's namesake brand grew comparable sales by 10% in the same quarter. So the company isn't broken. Old Navy is.

The question is whether the turnaround playbook that worked for the Gap brand can be transferred to a business that is five times harder to fix simply because of its size and revenue weight.

What's actually at stake for shoppers

Old Navy is not a luxury brand or a niche retailer. It is, by design, a mass-market clothing store for families who are watching their budgets. When it underperforms, the most likely reason is that its value proposition, the feeling that you're getting something decent for a reasonable price, isn't landing cleanly. That's a messaging problem, a product problem, or both.

Dickson says Old Navy has already seen "significant improvement" in traffic and sales over the past month. If that's accurate, Francis walks into the job with some early momentum rather than a freefall. But Dickson also narrowed Gap's full-year sales growth guidance, from a range of 1% to 2% down to 1% to 1.5%, specifically because of Old Navy's drag. That's a concrete signal that management isn't expecting a fast recovery.

For the millions of Americans who shop Old Navy regularly, the near-term consequence is probably continued inconsistency: fewer compelling promotions, murkier seasonal campaigns, and a brand that hasn't quite figured out what it wants to say to you right now. The longer-term consequence depends on whether Francis can do what Dickson's team did with the Gap brand: tighten the message, clarify the product story, and make the stores feel worth walking into again.

The bigger pattern here is a familiar one in retail. A parent company with a portfolio of brands can mask a struggling unit for a while by pointing to profitability or strength elsewhere. But when that struggling unit is 60% of your revenue, the math eventually catches up. Gap is at that moment now, and it has until November to get a new leader into position before the holiday season, which is the one stretch of the retail calendar where you absolutely cannot afford to be confused about what you're selling.